Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Breakfast at dawn

Taking flagrant advantage of the time zone shift, I enjoyed a full
night's sleep and popped out of bed for a delicious breakfast.
Normally, I'm a "night owl," and never up this early.

Our first full day includes touring Johannesburg and stopping to
reflect and sing in Soweto, site of an infamous massacre of whole
families protesting apartheid before the revolution.

Monday, August 25, 2008

In the hotel in Johannesburg

30 hours and 15 minutes after leaving my bed in Chicago, I'm heading
to bed in Johannesburg. Very nice, helpful people, very inviting bed.
I'm just going to go see if I can find a Wi-Fi connection to get a
batch of posts from the trip uploaded, set up for 3 nights in the
room, get clean, and get to sleep. We set out for day one at 8:30am.
It's about 7pm, and I intend to sleep a lot tonight!

Approaching the African coast

Dakar, Senegal is the westernmost point on the coast of Africa,
perfect for refueling. It's 3:45am here, and we should land in about
an hour.

I'm trying not to think about the fact that I'm feeling like I just
survived a huge Atlantic crossing, but I'm not due to land in
Johannesburg for about nine and a half more hours. Growing up with
Mercator projection maps, that make the northern hemisphere look
bigger than the southern, it's a surprise to learn just how BIG Africa
is.

What I want from this trip

WARNING: introspection ahead! The Management cannot be responsible! If
you're easily bored, read no further! Skip to the next post with a
picture.
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As I have the next 16 or so hours to spend flying along without sleep,
I suppose it's a good time to think and write about what I expect.

Like all travel, especially to "first time" destinations, this won't
go the way I expect. But it's fun to mark down some expectations.
Quite a few different people contributed to the journey's cost, and my
entire trove of Delta frequent flyer miles (from back when I flew
frequently) went into this. So, what comes of it?

The music is a joy to perform, but nothing earth shattering. Just
seeing Africa will be an exerience worth the costs.

Seeing nation building in progress after a successful anti-colonial
revolution will be fascinating. South Africa pioneered the whole
notion of an active "truth and reconcilliation" process after it's
revolution. Its Constitution protects the rights of minorities more
carefully than does the (crumbling) US Constitution. But, things
aren't going completely perfectly. Will power corrupt, as it appears
to have done in Zimbabwe? If so, how far? How fast?

How do white and black people in ZA get along, now that political
power relationships have (nominally) inverted? Are they like oil and
water. If the new RSA Constitution is like an emulsion of the two, how
stable is it? It's one thing to read news services and editorials with
different points of view, get the "official" story through the
American media (which uses the technology developed for consumer
advertising to sell plutocracy), and have romantic visions of a state
crafted by the likes of Mandela and Tutu. But what do my German-South
African relatives have to say about actually living through the
revolution and post-apartheid realities? What might some other people
I might encounter say?

How does rule of law interact with freedom? Will I see kinds of
lawlessness that make me better appreciate the practical advantages of
life in Seattle, where I can count on a red traffic light to stop a
car from hitting me in a crosswalk? How is Johannesburg like Bangkok?
How is it different?

What questions am I not thinking about? The scientist in me likes to
define questions before setting out in search of answers. I've seen
some really bad science done by smart people who confused experiment
with exploration (conducting expensive experiments without a
hypothesis to test--answering the not-too-useful question "what
happens when I..."). Now, I get to try and be less of a scientist and
more of an explorer--fitting questions to the answers I observe.

I guess this will be like all international travel. For a few days, I
leave the restrictive "brane" of my domestic point of view, and see
the world (and America) from a different perspective. Along the way, I
see things differently. In this case, I get to add a background of
touring musical performance, and the sheer intensity of doing it all
in Africa.

I want to experience it, and see my universe differently.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Eight hours, twentyfour minutes

Never mind what the web site says. Never mind the special adapter. Of
course, Delta doesn't really have Em-power(tm) 12V power ports in
every seat of it's 767-400ER. If it did, I could sleep, and that would
be too good. So, a mere 8:24 of the child screaming abuse at his
parents from 3 rows back, and we'll land in Dakar. From there, it's
only five or so more hours to Johannesburg.

Fortunately, I intend to enjoy this trip anyway. But the flights just
turned hellacious because no CPAP=no sleep.

Next stage

Tropical storm Faye hasn't disrupted Atlanta too much yet. I'll enjoy this last chance to post over the AT&T network. In Africa, it will cost far too much in "data roaming" charges to just stay connected (all via my iPhone), so I will have to post pics when I encounter Wi-Fi network connections.

Onward...

Dawn at O'Hare

After an uneventful overnight in a desolate suburb near the airport (even some sleep, my last on a horizontal surface until Johannesburg, if all goes according to plan), I arrive back at O'Hare Airport in Chicago, ready for the long flights. Delta already improved things, by re-routing me from Chicago direct to Atlanta, instead of my original itinerary via Cincinnati. It means an extra hour at the airport in Chicago (I could've slept!), but less airplane time and one less opportunity to get misconnected.

This trip will be my first attempt to sleep during the long segments, using the "laptop power ports" for my CPAP while in a coach-class seat. If it works, I'll be a very happy camper. It worked great when I flew to Turkey last May, but that was in business class (thanks to my dear sister's love affair with American Airlines). This will be a longer flight with less leg, shoulder, and elbow room. But, if I really sleep, it should be easy. I always have trepidation before a flight like this. Then it happens, and then it's over, and then I'm somewhere wonderful.

Onward...

Thursday, August 21, 2008

My route


Here, courtesy of Great Circle Mapper, is my travel route:
Seattle
Chicago
Cincinnati
Atlanta
Dakkar
Johannesburg
Port Elizabeth
Cape Town
Johannesburg
Dakkar
Atlanta
Chicago
Seattle

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Pre launch


This is where I plan to put photos and short stories from my upcoming tour of South Africa. My tour begins on Sunday, August 24, 2008. More details are soon to come. For now, if you bookmark or RSS feed this site, you'll be ready to see what I manage to upload from SA.