Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Reflection: gradients, love, justice


(picture is sunset view of Devil's Peak and Table Mountain)

For the last day in SA, I was on my own in Cape Town. I walked from the City Lodge Hotel, where our group stayed, to the Fountains Hotel in central Cape Town. As I walked, trailing my new "big trolley bag" and wearing my carry-on bag in backpack mode, I realized that this was my first time loose in Africa while not under the watchful eyes of our tour guides Pieter or Ina, or someone they chose to look after us. As I walked out of the Victoria and Albert Waterfront tourist zone, there were fewer and fewer white faces, no special "security patrol" mini cars hovering around, and more cheap street food stalls, social service agencies, and working people.

Everything was a bit grittier. It reminded me of non-tourist parts of Bangkok, except with a certain tatty opulence. During apartheid, this was almost certainly a whites-only area. It didn't have the bombed-out feel of Johannesburg, but the kind of slight tension of, say, Brooklyn in New York.

The advice I had received, from multiple sources, was that walking around here during daylight was basically safe--usual rules for city walking anywhere applied (be aware, don't look lost, confused, indecisive, etc., and don't display cash, iPhone, and such.

At night, I was advised, one should take a taxi, even for short distances. The problem was that rich and poor people are so very different in wealth, and the poor, especially the many undocumented refugees from Zimbabwe, Angola, etc., can be desperate.

I explored a little during the afternoon. An Internet shop offered connection for R5/hour. It was a dialup-speed connection. I read some news headlines, and decided to go for the pricey, intermittent Wi-Fi in my hotel. I was hungry, and wanted to try a "boerworst," the sausage that forms the mainstay of a brae. After passing a couple of sketchy-looking street stands, I chose a (Cape Malay) take-out counter that featured "strictly halal" foods and a seating area with lots of Arabic placards. Muslims, along with kosher meat companies, "answer to a higher authority," so I tend to trust them.

As night fell, I retreated to my hotel, and blew R200 on Wi-Fi. With my R300 reserve for the airport taxi, I was left short of Rand for dinner. That left me looking at risking (rampant) credit card fraud and annoying the restaurant with a small charge, or risking a trip out of the hotel for an ATM.

The hotel desk clerk solved my dilemma, by having a hotel security man walk me to and from the bank ATM, half a block away.

Like an ionic molecular gradient across a biological membrane, the steep wealth gradient here requires energy to maintain. Fear, security guards, physical barriers, and avoidance of direct interfaces are needed.

The rich prey on the poor in grand scale. 'Twas ever thus. But the poor prey on the rich in small, desperate ways. Mainly, fear preys on everyone.

So, how will SA deal with being a place where the so rich and the so poor mix atop such a rich land? It once had a kind of "good government" and a civility built on shared community values and rule of law. But that was built on a rotten foundation of apartheid. Physical and legal barriers kept the poor and their needs separated from the rich and their abundance.

Now, the gradient that apartheid maintained is partially equalizing. Efforts at affirmative action, and its current incarnation of "black economic empowerment" (BEE) are bringing some measure of justice, but the historical injustice is thus only shifted from blacks to whites.

White college graduates experience BEE as racial discrimination. They weren't yet born, or were small children during apartheid. They didn't personally discriminate against blacks.

Crime is another factor with an impact in life and community. The homes of well off whites in Johannesburg are surrounded by high walls with electric or razor wire fences atop them. Signs on each such house advertise the particular "armed response" security company that protect them.

In Kliptown, in Soweto, kids run freely around the many small shack homes. This was once the black township that served as a ghetto--a residential prison of sorts. Now, it's the wealthy that live in prisons. Surrounded by barbed wire, they cower at night, penned in by fear of crime.

There's a great challenge in building a just society out of a history of injustice. Economic disparity is inevitable. Unless there are the bonds of community, including love for one another and one another's children, then barriers are needed to maintain the disparity.

South Africa has made great conscious steps to foster intracommunal love, through things like it's five-language national anthem, constitutional guarantees of civic equality, and truth and reconcilliation process.

Whether or not they accomplish the kind of social reconcilliation, and a level of "community" that frees people from the prisons of fear and the pain of (even compensatory) injustice remains to be seen.

What lessons the South African experience has for us in America is something to consider. We still have chattel slavery in recent memory, and the residual social effects of racism. Also, we're moving AWAY from socioeconomic balance. The middle classes in America are shrinking, as wealth and income disparities grow. The American rich might do well to rethink their "get ALL of it" tendencies in the light of the poor imprisoned rich folk of Johannesburg.

Finally, learning radical love of neighbor, whether philosophically or religiously motivated, would ease the pain we all feel in an inherently disparate, diverse society.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Bouncing along

On my flight segment from Dakar, Senegal to Atlanta, I'm strapped in
tight as we approach Bermuda over the stormy Atlantic. I left Cape
Town 25 hours ago. Just three and a half hours to go before the tender
mercies of US Customs and Immigration, Atlanta Airport, a relatively
short flight to Chicago, subway, family, car, suburb, and bed.

All the great experiences of travel come at the cost of this arduous
journey. It's like flying into the eye of a hurricane. Hellacious
struggle getting in Amazing beauty there Hellacious struggle getting
out.

Then you land. Glory be..

Friday, September 5, 2008

My last African sunset (at least for now)

My flights home begin a day later than the tour group's. So, I moved
into a slightly less costly hotel for my final night. Though I paid
for a tiny room with an "atrium" view, I was given a splendid view if
Devil's Peak and Table Mountain from a big corner room.

The day and night away from everyone is a good time to reflect on my
experience.

Here is my plan for completing this blog over the next few days:

I will write one or maybe more summary reflections. Africa is food for
a lot of thought. I learned a lot, and want to write about it.

I will prepare some topical photo posts. Posting from my iPhone means
one photo per post. When I get home on September 10th, I'll be able to
post multiple pics together, using my desktop machine.

I plan to use my desktop machine to improve rendering of the pics,
clean up the excess line returns, and generally tidy the blog in ways
I can't easily do from my poor little telephone.

Closing dinner

Our final dinner as a touring group was at the Africa Café in Cape
Town. It was a pan-African feast served amid marvelous décor by
colorful women.

Speeches were exchanged, and love filled the air.

A presentation from Ons Plek

A Cape Town charity that houses and provides social support for
homeless girls, Ons Plek ("our place") seeks to re-unite their clients
with their extended or original home families when it is possible, and
help them on their way to independent adulthood when family support
isn't possible.

Ons Plek was established because girls (ages approximately 8 to 18) on
the street are particularly vulnerable to predation, and had no other
social service agencies that met their needs at the time. The web site
for Ons Plek is here. My relatives
in Hermanus recall donating to Ons Plek when they lived in Cape Town.
They are a worthy and well-regarded agency.

The choir and Bellevue UCC raised a gift of over US$5,000, which was
presented after our meeting. As the facility is too small for all of
us, a delegation of the choir visited Ons Plek with the gift.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Photo: caterpillars!

A woman passing the big white tourist phptographing the bug said that
they call it a "congoloti."

Those people are everywhere

We met with a representative of Ons Plek (more about them later) in a
space kindly provided by a Methodist church on Cape Town. The space is
also used by a Metropolitan Community Church. The MCC has been a
pioneer denomination among Christian churches, welcoming gay, lesbian,
bisexual, and transgender people long before it was a widespread
practice among enlightened congregations.

South Africa is not much different from other countries in terms of
LGBT realities. Things are still difficult, particularly in rural
areas and less progressive faith communities. But the South African
Constitution guarantees equal rights for ALL South Africans. It's the
world's first (AFAIK) to guarantee LGBT people equal rights in its
original text. The reality is that SA has a long rocky road ahead. But
the dream of a rainbow nation is a noble one. It deserves, and the
South African people deserve, our attention, love, and prayers.

Photo: view from near the Cape lighthouse

Photo: living dangerously at the Cape of Good Hope

We visit the Cape of Good Hope

Great views. I can understand the southernmost point. Also the
westernmost point. I'm still trying to imagine the geometry of the
"south-westernmost point.". But, then, there we were...

Our chariot

From right to left:

It had executive seats.
We could drink.
We could pee (and worse).
It snowed inside.
It got REALLY exciting when we cornered.

OK, just one more penguin pic...

I hadn't noticed how good it was.

Photo: ok, enough with the penguins, already!

Photo: even more penguins

More penguins

Peeeennnnnnguinnnns!

Peguins! Penguins!

Penguins!

After lions, zebras, rhinos, elephants, giraffes, wildebeests,
haartebeests, whales, a seal, various antelopes, ostriches, baboons,
green vervet monkeys, and all manner of flying birds, penguins.

A couple of our group were scarily (well almost) into penguins. We had
our peak penguin experience.

Photo: it helps to know where they hang out...

Typical view of stunning coast, Cape of Good Hope

Photo: ursine tourism

Photo: heading down the peninsula to the Cape of Good Hope

Photo: Girls on tour, mostly Baptist

Photo: Langa

Photo: Langa

Photo: Langa

Photo: Langa

Photo: Langa

Photo: Langa

Photo: Langa

Final concert

We made a joint appearance with a very nice local group "Voices of
Cape Town."

The venue was Langa Baptist Church. Langa is a "township,"
historically a place where black people were constrained to live.
During apartheid, a black person would need a special pass to leave
the township and enter the whites-only (or "coloureds-only") areas.

Langa Baptist is the first Baptist church in the Cape region, founded
in 1953. They claim about 500 members, operate a soup kitchen, and
have a support group for people with AIDS.

The audience was a bit sparse, outnumbered by performers. But what
they lacked in numbers, they made up for in the warmth and enthusiasm
they proffered.

Love was in the air, and I decided to use the powers invested in me by
the Baptist principle we call "the priesthood of all believers" to
declare everyone Honorary Baptists for the evening.

Comment on this

to those who have, thanks!

Because of some "comment span," I turned on a little "prove I'm human" feature, but please do comment. It let's us (on the tour) know you're out there.

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Photo: Ships in drydock, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town

Cape Town

After an overnight diversion to visit relatives in Hermanus, I rejoin
the tour in Cape Town. The Victoria and Albert Waterfront is a complex
of shops, upscale malls, and restaurants, plus a working harbor with
ship drydocks and Robben Island tour boat terminal.

Everything seems to cost about 150% of what it costs elsewhere in SA.
Shop space rental must be steep. I looked at a replacement pair of Ray
Ban Wayfarers, as my pair is slowly falling apart. They cost more than
back home.

Nice views, though.

Whales!

This is the whale-watching area of Hermanus, where Antarctic whales
come to calve during the austral winter. We worried that the storm-
enhanced heavy swell would drive them far out to sea, but they came
into view and performed for us.

Here, I left the tour for a visit with family, to rejoin in Cape Town
the next day.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Best restaurant so far

The group split up for dinner in the beach resort town of Wilderness.
My soon-to-be erstwhile roommate and I opted for Potjie (pronounced "poy-kee"),
named after the iron pot used by the early Boers that we'd recognize
as a "Dutch oven" (the kind you cook with, not what some of you might
be thinking of).

So, most of the 10 or so of us went into the nice little restaurant
section, done in sort of "fern bar" style, and started to ask about
wine by the glass, which dishes weren't too spicy, etc.

Chuck and I went into the adjacent pub. We had two pints each of a
good lager, brewed in nearby Knysna. The light cigarette smoke in the
pubmade the beer taste even better. Joe, the amiable Xhosa bartender,
brought us our potjies of lamb stew. We enjoyed them with the brown
bread baked on the premises, scratched the dog as we quaffed our
second lagers, and watched the local folk shoot pool, while 1970's
rock music played on the jukebox. After paying up at the bar, we
enjoyed a short walk, and came back to the bus, just in time to watch
our friends straggle out of the fern bar, complaining about "that
woman" who "took forever to bring us our [separate] checks."

Fortified with a quart of good fresh lager each, we congratulated
ourselves on having won the dinner competition.

Photo: on the trail, Featherbed

Photo: photos from the viewing platform about 2/3rds up the hill, Featherbed.

Photo: up the hill at Featherbed

Photo: Blue Duiker

In a small enclosure at the Featherbed Reserve, Africa's smallest
antelope, the Blue Duiker (smaller than the Dik Dik, made famous on
the Seattle music scene), hides in plain sight. The reserve maintains
a breeding colony running free, and keeps a couple of the elusive wee
beasties for us tourists to view.

Photo: Knysna River mouth

A spring tide is flowing into the estuary. Even with skilled pilots,
this inlet has been littered with shipwrecks.

Photo: Knysna headlands

These are the adjacent peninsulae that form the mouth of the harbor.

Across the estuary at Knysna

Still on the Indian Ocean coast, we proceeded to the village of Knysna
(pronounced like "nize-nah"). After some shopping, we boarded a tour
boat for the Featherbed Nature Reserve.

"Featherbed" is the name given the estuary by sailors, who found the
Knysna River mouth estuary as calm and comfortable as a feather bed
after months of sailing on the open ocean.

Monday, September 1, 2008

The other half of our youth contingent

Sheila. Her mother affectionately calls her "the evil spawn."

Photo: Sue, enjoying the abundance of oxygen at sea level

After the dusty, relatively hypoxic air in Joburg, the rain-washed
coast was sweet.

Photo: place setting for dinner with tiny Protea flower, George

Photo: bread and mushroom soup before singing, George

Photo: audience in George

Joint concert at the Dutch Reformed Church, Denneoord

As temperatures plunged to something like 50F, we filed into this big
church near the city of George, to prepare for our joint concert with
the George Male Choir.

It wasn't really all that cold, but we acted as if it were, as the
church building was unheated. Energy prices are high, and building
central heating on the southern Cape makes about as much sense as air
conditioning a church in Seattle. A lot of capital investment and
maintenance for use only a few days each year.

We rehearsed with the George Male Choir for the two songs we did
together. This is an Afrikaans-speaking, mainly white choir and
community. They prepared a snack of bread and soup for us after
rehearsal. We gladly put on the same robes that were so terribly hot
in Kwa Thema, and watched the (plain, stage/projector screen style)
sanctuary fill with people.

The George choir sang (beautifully), and we relaxed in side pews while
the audience enjoyed hot chocolate and pancakes at intermission. Then,
we sang, and joined the George choir for a very nice dinner.

As we were singing, electricity was restored to our hotel. A long day
of singing with very nice people ended very comfortably.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Stormy weather

We arrived at the lovely beachside town of Wilderness. The winds and
surf are wild indeed. As a consequence, there is no electricity.

This means no Wi-Fi, no CPAP, no iPhone recharge. I'll queue up posts
as long as the battery holds up, and transmit when I'm re-powered.

Storms River Gorge

Pulling up in our two huge tour busses, we did the 20 minute lunch drill:

1. Park bus, hustle the "slows" to clear the aisle.

2. Observe the masses heading to the toilets, divert to the fast food stand.

3. Select the hero instead of a burger--the long thin bun geometry eats faster than the round burger bun.

4. Eat the sandwich at the counter with water #1, leaving the "small chips" (French fries) for eating on the move.

5. Proceed to the view point (near the tallest bungee-jumping bridge on earth), while steadily eating chips.

6. Marvel at the splendor of God's creation, while steadily eating chips.

7. Snap photo while steadily eating chips.

8. Proceed to toilets, tuck bag of chips under chin, be glad that not a woman.

9. Proceed to convenience store, select dessert snacks, observe computerized cash register freezing up.

10. Abort purchase as staff begins developing a hand-writing and calculator based system while time runs out. Enjoy final chip.

11. Proceed in expedited fashion to the bus, happy to not be the last.